If you have sat in my chair you know that one of my passions is Dimensional Color or High- lighting and Low-lighting.  You also know that I am a bit outspoken on the subject of how the process should be approached. 

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Why am I critical on this subject?

There are many reasons but most of all because color and the tools we use have a very specific set of rules and guidelines that if not followed can result in extreme damage and/or results that do not fit the expectation.

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Products

When highlighting for Blonde; you can use several products but most common are Bleach and High-lift Tint (a special color that has extreme lifting capability)

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Using Bleach

Bleach is a ‘Progressive Lightener’ meaning that it continues to lift as you long as it is on the hair. This also means that the area applied first will be lighter than the area did last if all the foils are taken off at the same time!  (REMEMBER THIS). 

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In order to properly use Bleach you MUST remove the packets as each process!  This is not an option!  If not you will end up with the area done first much lighter than the rest and will have to use a toner, thus negating the effect of a highlight because a toner is an all over color and takes away dimension!  ​

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Bleach is an amazing tool in the right hands, in the wrong hands it’s an assault weapon!  To remove the packets one would simply start checking the packets a few minutes after application then remove each one as it is ready and wipe with a damp towel to remove the bleach.  If the hair is fine you should spray with water as well. 

 

The nice part about bleach is that you can bring each packet up to a different color if you like by removing each as you reach the desired tone. 

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The down side of Bleach is that in the wrong hands it is one of the most damaging products you can use on the hair.  The result is purely in the hands of the user and experience means everything!

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Alternatives to bleach

Luckily today we have alternatives to bleach.  Hi-Lift Tints or Colors can be used successfully to life the hair up to 4 shades successfully without the dryness and damage.  On hair that is light brown and lightener you can achieve a very natural effect that will also be less maintenance.

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As for the best brands; Wella, L’Oreal (900 series) and Goldwell, each have their pluses but I prefer Wella due to its low level of ammonia and fast processing time.  Each use a 40% peroxide developer and should be watched closely when processing.  Remember, manufacturers put the processing time on the package as a guide only!  You should make sure your stylist still checks the process every ten minutes at least and remove when the desired tone is achieved. 

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Using Foils

For today’s highlights foiling is the preferred method of most top colorists as it gives you the greatest control and the most consistent method of application.  Another tool is Plastic Color packets, also an excellent tool and can be very useful on longer hair.

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You can usually tell the quality of a colorists work by the method and appearance of these packets and their placement as they are applied.  Look for very neat organized and properly folded rows.  Also make sure the packets are placed closely to the roots as possible, this is limited by the actual width of the parting. 

 

Placement of foils

Depending on the desired result  and the operators goals the placement of the actual packets can vary greatly.  Some basic guides;  For more natural looks you want smaller sections and a finer weaving of the hair.  Also you always want to work vertically around the front and side hairlines  if natural is your goal.   If the packets are applied horizontally in the front hair line you will see lines when you pull the hair back.  For Curly hair use wider bolder weaving and moderate size sections as curly hair bunches up when dry and you need the boldness to give more notice to the highlight.

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Timing

Every head varies and the stylist should not rely on manufacturer’s guidelines as they are very general.