Hair Structure and Growth

I include this page on my site to help you better understand the actual makeup of hair and its structure so as we work in the salon and converse you will have a better idea of why we are moving through the processes that we are and how each process can effect the hair and where. The more you understand about the actual makeup of hair the better and informed your decisions on where to head with your image will be placed

Hair consists of 3 primary layers or parts

An innermost layer or medulla which is only present in thick or coarse thick hair and at times not at all or intermittently.

The middle layer known as the cortex provides the primary strength and is home to the color molecule and water molecule that gives hair its elasticity. It is also the area that is most effected by chemical and other damaging issues. Hence when we repair hair this is the main area we must concentrate on. It is the focus of my treatment system

The outermost layer is known as the cuticle is thin and colorless and serves as a protector of the cortex, much like scales on a fish for a better analogy. It is also extremely important that you protect this area for if not the cuticles become raised and you lose your shine. The same effect as if you rand sand paper over a piece of shinny wood.

Structure of the hair root

Below the surface of the skin is the hair root, which is enclosed within a hair follicle. At the base of the hair follicle is the dermal papilla. The dermal papilla is feed by the bloodstream which carries nourishment to produce new hair.

The dermal papilla is a structure very important to hair growth because it contains receptors for male hormones and androgens. Androgens regulate hair growth and in scalp hair Androgens may cause the hair follicle to get progressively smaller and the hairs to become finer in individuals who are genetically predisposed to this type of hair loss.

The Hair Growth Cycle

Hair follicles grow in repeated cycles...One cycle can be broken down into three phases.

Anagen - Growth Phase
Catagen - Transitional phase
Telogen - Resting Phase

Each hair passes through the phases independent of the neighboring hairs, meaning that the hair is in a constant state of flux and passing all three stages at once.

Anagen Phase - Growth Phase
Approximately 85% of all hairs are in the growing phase at any one time. The Anagen phase or growth phase can vary from two to six years. Hair grows approximately 10cm per year and any individual hair is unlikely to grow more than one meter long.

Catagen Phase - transitional phase
At the end of the Anagen phase the hairs enters into a Catagen phase which lasts about one or two weeks, during the Catagen phase the hair follicle shrinks to about 1/6 of the normal length. The lower part is destroyed and the dermal papilla breaks away to rest below.

Telogen Phase - resting phase
The resting phase follows the catagen phase and normally lasts about 5-6 weeks. During this time the hair does not grow but stays attached to the follicle while the dermal papilla stays in a resting phase below. Approximately 10-15 percent of all hairs are in this phase at an one time.
At the end of the Telogen phase the hair follicle re-enters the Anagen phase. The dermal papilla and the base of the follicle join together again and a new hair begins to form. If the old hair has not already been shed the new hair pushes the old one out and the growth cycle starts all over again.